Friday, February 24, 2012

Green Shadowing

As college students, we are commanded to reflect on many topics including historical events and analytical data related to research, but to have the opportunity to reflect on oneself is quite….odd.  As I check the mirror image of my future consciousness, I believe I am an optimistic person.  In order for me to envision a more sustainable future, I have to realize that I have a great responsibility, as well, to preserve the richness of the Earth.  Honestly, performing constant consumption assessments such as, bad shopping behavior, the actions I take to dispose of old garments, and so forth, will allow me to monitor my own deeds and make adjustments.
Even religion reiterates this idea of counting the simple things as important, not man-made craftsmanship or artifacts.  Limiting consumption: Toward a sustainable future agrees that if you turned on the television, commercial advertising would show other principles at play encouraging over indulgence.  No wonder why overconsumption is the latest trend for retailers and other industries alike. Interestingly enough, the author pulls out a biblical scripture, “What profits a man to gain the whole world, if he loses his soul.”  I am reminded of another passage, “The love of money is the root to ALL evil.” There has to be a clear, concise understanding of what sustainability is and how to crossover the defining moment into an existing reality. According to Thinking ahead: The value of future consciousness, there is a push to breakdown the scientific findings and terminology, so that ordinary people can decipher what it means, along with the appropriate actions to take to better our present circumstances. Sustainability is all about good stewardship and selflessness, keeping others in mind while enjoying the tangible fortunes.
 
With influence drawn from Visioneering: An essential framework in sustainability science, my vision of a sustainable future looks like a place of true appreciation for our planet Earth and love for the natural gifts given to us. I want to see people nourish our depleted ground soil; reduce greenhouse gases polluting the air, and restore animal life in the ocean as well as within the forest. These things can only be accomplished through full participation from humanity. We have to learn how to respect the beautiful offerings of the land, which can be here today and gone tomorrow. One has to have the mental mode that “what you do affects not only yourself, but others around you. “  As consumers, we must stop over consuming commodities to our liking.  We tell ourselves that we deserve lavish lifestyles because, overall, we are Americans and we’ve earned the right, meaning high-paying job or some other made-up excuse.  Some would argue that Americans live in the land of hopes and dreams, with no perception of reality.

I dream of society where an organized day of celebration, called Earth Day, turns into a daily challenge to solve environmental issues plaguing the success of the next generation.  I envision citizens regularly recycling plastic bottles and paper, looking for new ways of using old clothing and material, creating fashion trends that intermix last season designs with the current season, using biodegradable fabrics like organic cotton and certain synthetic fibers, rather than continuing the poor irrigation practices that is currently happening, and so much more.  My vision is for companies to become more concerned with green innovation than the number of immediate sales.

Friday, February 17, 2012

What Lies Beneath Eco-Promising

Many consumers are left with little knowledge about green products, or those misrepresented friendlier than they naturally are.  Claims have to be trustworthy with complementary performing actions and clear, detailed information about environmental impacts.  Every aspect of the business or organization should be consistent in practicing sustainable activities to better approve these declarations and gain a true competitive advantage.  I think consumer interests would be served with the creation of standardization of environmental claims.  Substantial communication is the golden key to educating consumers about green terminology and environmental characteristic of goods.  When rules are not made it leaves more room for error.

Marketers have noticed the rise in ‘ethical spending’ and everyone wants a piece of the organic pie.  Now more than ever before, companies are being made to conduct business in a more efficient and effective manner, internally.  They are forced to respond to the question, “What are you doing to help socially and environmentally to alleviate big problems?”  The biggest challenge has become who can make the most money without creating an exceeding amount of cost, monetarily and environmentally-wise, to make a great product or create a service.  As the old saying goes, actions speak louder than words.  According to the Eco-promising article, with the excitement and booming business that comes from the branding of green, many businesses have chosen to outlandishly lie to the public about what they do.  Retailers are uttering false claims and spitting them out as truth.  Outside people are getting fed up with the inappropriate verbal usage.

Misleading ads have left consumers feeling deceived by retailer’s cruel intentions to ignite more sales. The greenwash guide (2008) states that greenwash refers to business and governmental agencies failure to comply with the so-called green practices announced via media outlets.  False environmental performances are pushing customers to shun the “green movement”, than encouraging shoppers to buy more.  A good cause is being polluted with trickery and schemes. Greenwash is the result of negligent advertising activities and misinformation.  It poses a great risk to stopping the social and environmental change in its bare tracks. General terms like ‘eco-friendly’, poor product attachment to green practices, green suggestive images, and many other unreliable messages are to blame.
One of the worst product advertisements that show greenwashing is Hovey Lee’s reclaimed brass collection of jewelry.  The Adil bracelet goes on to say cubes of reclaimed metal are knotted into the embroidery thread creating a comfortable, relaxed style.  No background info is given as to where this metal was taken from or what is done with leftover piece unused to make each ornament.  She leaves one guessing about the truthfulness behind the green message.  What kinds of fibers are used to make the embroidery thread? Are these natural or synthetic fibers?

One of the best eco-friendly brands is the well-known philanthropic shoes, TOMS.  The brand’s newly launched ballet flats provide detail information for any shopper looking to purchase environmentally savvy kicks.  Fabrics range includes leather, suede, linen, burlap, chambray, and woven canvas.  The web description highlights a two-layer insert with EVA foam and latex for plush comfort, and one-piece outsole for flexibility and durability.  One of their other lines called Vegan Shoes informs the customer of the definition of vegan, using no animal products.  The retailer discusses the nature and benefits of their offerings well.

Friday, February 10, 2012

The Ground Truth about Cotton

There is no question that cotton is a natural resource, home grown from Earth’s dirt and water supply.  The cultivation of conventional cotton makes use of icky things such as pesticides and insecticides. Not to mention that the exposure of pesticides is causing serious health problems affecting the human brain and eyesight, with severe cases leading to death.  Poor irrigation practices, or lack of water management, have a star role in the process as well, in the growth of this crop.

Through the emerging of globalization, we have learned that cheap labor has become essential to running a successful corporation today.  For example, The Aral Sea area of Central Asia, where cheap labor equates to increased production, poses an even greater threat to the environment from high water and pesticide use by poor irrigation systems in place.  There’s been much talk about the little to nothing wages given to workers, but a bit of silence has fallen over the topic of labor performance carried out.  According to The sustainability of cotton: consequences for man and environment by Kooistra, a consequence of the excessive use in the Aral Sea area was the concentration of pollutants in the water. It has been the main cotton provider for the USSR since 1938, a situation that lead to significant ill effects, including: a 75% drop sea area, a 92% drop in fish groups, and an 88% drop in plant life.

Farmers need more knowledge and skills, especially those in developing countries, to help modify their agricultural activities to become more environmentally conscious.  Farmers living in developing countries are at a high disadvantage than those in places such as the United States.  Growing cotton is their primary source of income, maintaining soil fertility and reducing the chances of soil erosion come with a high price tag; replenishment is not a matter of importance compared to security of life.  People are more incline not to rotate cotton with other crops to ensure their compensation.  Taking this risk of soil contamination heightens the pressure from soilborne pathogens; as a result soil fumigants are used even more.  Water is a sensitive resource; it’s quickly being depleted with no replenishment cycle developed neither to counteract intensive cultivation, nor to revitalize the land the cotton was once cultivated on.
In the Cotton Inc. video called Control for Erosion Control, the Ellis family turns cotton gin trash into high quality mulche, which is a conservation technique believe it or not.  This mulche is sprayed onto landscaping projects to prevent soil erosion. Most mulche is made from wood; they have taken a byproduct and introduced it to the green industry.  This action helps to reduce soil corruption and promote fertility.  This sustainable attempt lessens landfill waste through finding an alternative for leftover cotton pieces too.

Friday, February 3, 2012

EverLASTING Fashion

There is a lot of discussion about the usage of natural materials over synthetic fibers, so much so that corporations are even confused by it.  As a fashion designer that uses synthetic in production, it’s been brought to my attention that several others disagree with my choice. My fashion collections are heavily based on synthetic material. I passionately agree with the rest of the fashion industry, we do have an environmental and social responsibility as resource users.
In Sustainable fashion and textiles: Design Journeys by Kate Fletcher, the author challenges us to think beyond the material aspect and take more thought into the fibers lifecycle. Synthetic fibers are not as awful as my colleague seems to think. The false misconception is related to factors such as, renewability and biodegradability.  Granted, as Charline Ducas from Textile Exchange stated, synthetic fibers are very depended upon crude oil; however, natural fibers have a great impact on our environment too.  For example, cultivating cotton uses nearly 8000 liters of water whereas polyester uses little or zero water.  Not only is water management a problem but cotton growing requires a lot of fertilizers and harmful pesticides, which can be detrimental to the consumed water supply.  It’s already causing a lack of biodiversity and land infertility. The court ruling is still out on whether or not using natural fibers is a true sustainable practice. 
A recent study has shown that oil-based synthetic fibers like polyester are non-renewable and non-biodegradable.  In my latest designs, I have switched to using biodegradable synthetics made from poly(lactic acid), a polyester made from cotton. Making synthetic fibers add to higher levels of emissions, along with pollution in the air.  I do not agree with my colleague’s response to my preference of synthetic fibers, nor do I totally disagree with her.  There’s a lot of research that still is being performed, one must have complete information to know the most efficient method.  Both textiles can be recycled in some form.  There are many known and unknown complexities surrounding the environmental and social impacts from producing textiles. It’s an ever-continuing learning process.  

The newly-coined term called eco-efficiency means to do more with less.  Brand retailers and designers have to perform fashion activities that are beneficial to consumers as well as our environment. Charline Ducas provides me with hope because the non-profit organization, Textile Exchange, mission is to inspire and equip specific industry people to accelerate sustainable practices among manufacturers, retailers, farm groups and fashion schools.  This pragmatic approach considers design techniques and technology development.  As fashion designers, we must vow to remain informative on how to integrate sustainability into our product.