Ethical Production Equals Success!

Many times we fail to consider the makers and producers of the apparel items we adorn our bodies with, along with the depletion of natural resources.  Ethical product manufacturing for the consumer economy is vital to respond to the hazardous exposure to deadly chemicals and production methods.  Most news relating to the clothing and textile industry is not openly shared with the masses.  Granted, it’s not uncommon to hear about well-known retail brands being busted for supporting sweatshops for their cheap labor expense.  However, I voice that consumers should be provided more information about how specific brands treat their workers and the environmental conditions, or the lack thereof, that are being supported by revenue spun from consumer spending.  For example, water and textile pollution is a big problem that needs immediate attention since it directly affects mankind, while destroying natural ecosystems. 

I propose that standards relating to marketing and profitability be modified to include environmental responsible activities as determination of how successful a company is.  I think it’s unfair to permit competition in the marketplace that is inaccurately measured.  There should be a distinction between companies intentionally harming the environment and its people, and those businesses trying to better it by counteracting the damage that has already been done.  Mandating a reclassification of companies and their products would prompt manufacturers to design their products more efficiently in efforts to excel above their competitors and penetrate the market in a deeper, compassionate way.

This concept would specifically target over-consumers, individuals who are spending/buying exceedingly above what they need for survival purposes, by giving them the education necessary to change their habit to one that is eco-efficient.  According to Design Activism article by Fuad-Luke, design activists use artifacts and design processes to influence change by disrupting the status quo and revealing better visions for society. I’m pushing to inspire change in government policies and business practices to help consumers make more sustainable choices when purchasing fashions. This action has the power to awaken the consciousness of naïve shoppers about their ridiculous consumption patterns that further contribute to the devastation of the Earth.  Let’s transform communities by greening businesses!

One of the most important things I learned from taking a sustainability course is that consumer behavior plays a primary role in the mistreatment of the environment.  Processes such as growing cotton and using dyes for coloring have lasting impacts, and we are starting to reap the destruction that our industry has sown. We have to do something now, including myself. For examples, I realize that the millions of papers I have collected at each semester should be consciously recycled, not thrown away into the trash can.  I should recycle my soda bottles more often and many other actions that I can take to care for this beautiful planet. I plan on sharing this knowledge with my friends and family.  We all have to do our part to see it to flourish and grow for many more years to come.  I would like to learn more about upcycling and the new ways of using products once used for one main function.

Hold On to Your Belted Handbag

Apparel production is detrimental to the condition of our natural environment. The outpour of toxic chemicals, abundant waste, and high percentage of non-biodegradable synthetic fibers used to construct a garment with only aesthetic pleasing features.  Environmental sustainability rests on the shoulders of fashion designers, manufacturers, and buyers, including the consumers who consciously pay and support the poor behavior to continue.  From Cradle to Cradle Apparel Design article, cutting waste through the continuous expression of creativity and value with leftover pieces of material is the main idea of upcycling, at least from a fashion standpoint.  I was inspired by the technical metabolism described in Cradle to Cradle.  Complex material should be used after the current’s product life cycle.  Textile Futures by Quinn also explains how using reclaimed textiles can be used to create new fabulous products.  All pioneers are contributing to the apparel’s industry path of performing careful and considerate actions to create and remake fashion designs for wearability, durability, and functionality.  Eliminating the way we get rid of clothing by upcycling, making something equal or worth more than its initial purpose.

Many fashionistas would argue that belts are now considered staple pieces for an outfit, with animal prints and textures, and brilliant colors becoming all the new rage! Well, the lingering question isn’t what to wear with a belt as much as it is what to do with the belt once the trend has passed.  Come on, once upon a time, people only wore neutral colored belts such as your browns and blacks with little preference on style.  As we all know, fashion moves in a circular motion with ‘ins’ becoming ‘outs’ in a matter of seconds.  What will become of fashion belts?  Well, I propose that consumers start upcycling their leather belts as handbag handles.  Rework your old out-dated belt into your weakened strap on your favorite handbag! Talk about accessorizing!

The metal work from the buckle would provide a great fashionable clasp for closure. Most belts are designed to be worn at the waist of pants and/or skirts for a more flattering fit, or purchased to highlight a small waist by wearing on top of a garment such as a dress.  With trends and styles crossing over to the fashion accessory category, this allows the wearer to change the appearance of their purse straps just as much as they change the colors they wear for a particular season.  My innovative design concept gives the wearer the power to customize their handbag of choice into a serious fashion statement that showcases their individuality in an environmentally-friendly way, without spending a dime and saving money. 

Automake Fashion Accessories!

A technical nutrient is the idea of a product of service expanding from the providing of accommodation and activities for the present public to a continuous experience of new offerings or accommodations for future generations.  As the Cradle to Cradle article written by McDonough & Braungart states, technical nutrient is consciously made with the intention of returning to the industrial metabolism.  In the Rhoener Textiles video, the two rethought the notion of waste and how to formulate aesthetically unique fabric with environmental friendliness.  Their main concerns were safety for people and the environment.  I propose merging the world of automobiles, artful fashion, and environmental-awareness into a design concept that turns auto parts into ‘green’ forward fashion accessories. 

I was inspired by the technical metabolism due to the repetitive pattern of the same textile that eliminates the concept of waste, while providing significant savings for manufacturers and nourishing our planet in thoughtful, creative way.  Technical metabolism is about having longevity, along with the capability of use for multipurpose functions, beyond the original creation of an object.

In the Cradle to Cradle article, the authors mentioned the reusability of car parts, such as steel, being dismantled in an appropriate manner to recapture and transform previously used material into a new product.  Breaking down the interior of an automobile and using its complex materials as food for new fashion product extends the life cycle.  Retrieving parts of service products prevents these items from resting in ever-piling landfills and potentially, remove non-biodegradable car material presently in there, since upcycling causes the parts to be worth more than previously before.  After such non –hazardous material has been used to create jewelry pieces such as necklaces, bracelets, and earrings, these things can then be recycled (by Lexus or any other company) and designed into shoes, trench coats, or even fashionable head wear.

In this scenario, there is a mutually-beneficial relationship created amongst the automotive company, the fashion designer that created the master piece from the disassembled car, and the customer.  Through the understanding of the article, Lexus would be enhancing the customers’ quality of life for many decades and enriching the industry through expanding the perception of car-branded jewelry, or perhaps, reaping some of the profits from a fashion designer’s line, if they choose to license out their brand name or brand equipment.  Remember, the car material could still be circulated back into the industry, if the innovative fashion design was deemed unsuccessful, for salvaging of valuable technical nutrients.

(photos from Lexus Unveils The Lexus Fashion Workshop with Four Original Designs Made of Recyclable Lexus CT Hybrid Parts article; used parts from dismantled Lexus CT hybrid vehicle w/ 90 percent recyclable)

What Did We Do?

The time has come to accept our responsibility for not supplying the environment with nutrients and nourishment for continual prosperity, and own up to hurting our beautiful planet called Earth.  These are the two principles that helped me come up with my design concept.  In the apparel industry, I propose that we start using vegetable dye as a popular fabric dyeing technique.  In this process, fabric is bleached by sunlight and block printed by hand with natural dyes.  The ground soil can be made richer, which is extracting sustainably.  For example, indigo dye is from the legume family; this type of dye can repair the nitrogen level in the soil as it grows. Thus, the soil is left richer without its quality being diminished by harmful properties.  Garment finishes like wrinkle-free, stain resistant, flame retardant, anti-fungal, permanent-press and other easy care treatments applied to new clothing can be really harmful for people involved in production.  This is a safer method of dyeing for garment makers as well.  The truth is that we are causing the Earth harm with manufacturing processes and hard industries.  Let’s get back to appreciating our land, not disrespecting our home and trampling over growing treasures.

According to Industrial Ecology by T. Gradel & B. Allenby, the concept of industrial ecology is the willingness to conform to nature’s law of efficiency, to give up our mentality of tampering with things to make them more suitable to our ideals.  There is desperate need for understanding the significance of industrial ecology.  As humans, we have to learn to leave things as they are, to comply with nature’s rule now and back away from making unchangeable damaging decisions that affect our livelihood.  This world of toxic waste, heighten greenhouse gases in the atmosphere, and deadly diseases is shouting that our ingrained Industrial Revolutionary thinking gets an update fast.   

Humanity must learn that we cannot enforce activity that is not compatible to the land, without experiencing atmospheric changes that have the potential to lead to devastations.  Land is being dug up, built up, and removed all for the likings of human desires and wants.  This invasion of privacy on natural resources and for animals is causing us to incur major environmental problems.  Denial is a defense mechanism used to resist the recognition of a problem because it’s too unbearable to accept.  The statement of truth has been shoved in the corner and not given any attention.  We have refused to acknowledge our impactful ways in modernized society.  Granted, not every single action was deliberate, or were they?  Down the line somewhere, we stopped caring about the renewal pace of extracted natural resources.  Biomimicry: Innovation inspired by nature by J. Benyus states that the farther removed we became from nature in our attitudes, lifestyles, and spirituality, the more dependant we became on the products.  Humans are no longer fixated on the wonders of the world, but obsessed with what the world could materialistically produce. 

Green Shadowing

As college students, we are commanded to reflect on many topics including historical events and analytical data related to research, but to have the opportunity to reflect on oneself is quite….odd.  As I check the mirror image of my future consciousness, I believe I am an optimistic person.  In order for me to envision a more sustainable future, I have to realize that I have a great responsibility, as well, to preserve the richness of the Earth.  Honestly, performing constant consumption assessments such as, bad shopping behavior, the actions I take to dispose of old garments, and so forth, will allow me to monitor my own deeds and make adjustments.

Even religion reiterates this idea of counting the simple things as important, not man-made craftsmanship or artifacts.  Limiting consumption: Toward a sustainable future agrees that if you turned on the television, commercial advertising would show other principles at play encouraging over indulgence.  No wonder why overconsumption is the latest trend for retailers and other industries alike. Interestingly enough, the author pulls out a biblical scripture, “What profits a man to gain the whole world, if he loses his soul.”  I am reminded of another passage, “The love of money is the root to ALL evil.” There has to be a clear, concise understanding of what sustainability is and how to crossover the defining moment into an existing reality. According to Thinking ahead: The value of future consciousness, there is a push to breakdown the scientific findings and terminology, so that ordinary people can decipher what it means, along with the appropriate actions to take to better our present circumstances. Sustainability is all about good stewardship and selflessness, keeping others in mind while enjoying the tangible fortunes.

 
With influence drawn from Visioneering: An essential framework in sustainability science, my vision of a sustainable future looks like a place of true appreciation for our planet Earth and love for the natural gifts given to us. I want to see people nourish our depleted ground soil; reduce greenhouse gases polluting the air, and restore animal life in the ocean as well as within the forest. These things can only be accomplished through full participation from humanity. We have to learn how to respect the beautiful offerings of the land, which can be here today and gone tomorrow. One has to have the mental mode that “what you do affects not only yourself, but others around you. “  As consumers, we must stop over consuming commodities to our liking.  We tell ourselves that we deserve lavish lifestyles because, overall, we are Americans and we’ve earned the right, meaning high-paying job or some other made-up excuse.  Some would argue that Americans live in the land of hopes and dreams, with no perception of reality.

I dream of society where an organized day of celebration, called Earth Day, turns into a daily challenge to solve environmental issues plaguing the success of the next generation.  I envision citizens regularly recycling plastic bottles and paper, looking for new ways of using old clothing and material, creating fashion trends that intermix last season designs with the current season, using biodegradable fabrics like organic cotton and certain synthetic fibers, rather than continuing the poor irrigation practices that is currently happening, and so much more.  My vision is for companies to become more concerned with green innovation than the number of immediate sales.

What Lies Beneath Eco-Promising

Many consumers are left with little knowledge about green products, or those misrepresented friendlier than they naturally are.  Claims have to be trustworthy with complementary performing actions and clear, detailed information about environmental impacts.  Every aspect of the business or organization should be consistent in practicing sustainable activities to better approve these declarations and gain a true competitive advantage.  I think consumer interests would be served with the creation of standardization of environmental claims.  Substantial communication is the golden key to educating consumers about green terminology and environmental characteristic of goods.  When rules are not made it leaves more room for error.

Marketers have noticed the rise in ‘ethical spending’ and everyone wants a piece of the organic pie.  Now more than ever before, companies are being made to conduct business in a more efficient and effective manner, internally.  They are forced to respond to the question, “What are you doing to help socially and environmentally to alleviate big problems?”  The biggest challenge has become who can make the most money without creating an exceeding amount of cost, monetarily and environmentally-wise, to make a great product or create a service.  As the old saying goes, actions speak louder than words.  According to the Eco-promising article, with the excitement and booming business that comes from the branding of green, many businesses have chosen to outlandishly lie to the public about what they do.  Retailers are uttering false claims and spitting them out as truth.  Outside people are getting fed up with the inappropriate verbal usage.

Misleading ads have left consumers feeling deceived by retailer’s cruel intentions to ignite more sales. The greenwash guide (2008) states that greenwash refers to business and governmental agencies failure to comply with the so-called green practices announced via media outlets.  False environmental performances are pushing customers to shun the “green movement”, than encouraging shoppers to buy more.  A good cause is being polluted with trickery and schemes. Greenwash is the result of negligent advertising activities and misinformation.  It poses a great risk to stopping the social and environmental change in its bare tracks. General terms like ‘eco-friendly’, poor product attachment to green practices, green suggestive images, and many other unreliable messages are to blame.

One of the worst product advertisements that show greenwashing is Hovey Lee’s reclaimed brass collection of jewelry.  The Adil bracelet goes on to say cubes of reclaimed metal are knotted into the embroidery thread creating a comfortable, relaxed style.  No background info is given as to where this metal was taken from or what is done with leftover piece unused to make each ornament.  She leaves one guessing about the truthfulness behind the green message.  What kinds of fibers are used to make the embroidery thread? Are these natural or synthetic fibers?

One of the best eco-friendly brands is the well-known philanthropic shoes, TOMS.  The brand’s newly launched ballet flats provide detail information for any shopper looking to purchase environmentally savvy kicks.  Fabrics range includes leather, suede, linen, burlap, chambray, and woven canvas.  The web description highlights a two-layer insert with EVA foam and latex for plush comfort, and one-piece outsole for flexibility and durability.  One of their other lines called Vegan Shoes informs the customer of the definition of vegan, using no animal products.  The retailer discusses the nature and benefits of their offerings well.

The Ground Truth about Cotton

There is no question that cotton is a natural resource, home grown from Earth’s dirt and water supply.  The cultivation of conventional cotton makes use of icky things such as pesticides and insecticides. Not to mention that the exposure of pesticides is causing serious health problems affecting the human brain and eyesight, with severe cases leading to death.  Poor irrigation practices, or lack of water management, have a star role in the process as well, in the growth of this crop.

Through the emerging of globalization, we have learned that cheap labor has become essential to running a successful corporation today.  For example, The Aral Sea area of Central Asia, where cheap labor equates to increased production, poses an even greater threat to the environment from high water and pesticide use by poor irrigation systems in place.  There’s been much talk about the little to nothing wages given to workers, but a bit of silence has fallen over the topic of labor performance carried out.  According to The sustainability of cotton: consequences for man and environment by Kooistra, a consequence of the excessive use in the Aral Sea area was the concentration of pollutants in the water. It has been the main cotton provider for the USSR since 1938, a situation that lead to significant ill effects, including: a 75% drop sea area, a 92% drop in fish groups, and an 88% drop in plant life.

Farmers need more knowledge and skills, especially those in developing countries, to help modify their agricultural activities to become more environmentally conscious.  Farmers living in developing countries are at a high disadvantage than those in places such as the United States.  Growing cotton is their primary source of income, maintaining soil fertility and reducing the chances of soil erosion come with a high price tag; replenishment is not a matter of importance compared to security of life.  People are more incline not to rotate cotton with other crops to ensure their compensation.  Taking this risk of soil contamination heightens the pressure from soilborne pathogens; as a result soil fumigants are used even more.  Water is a sensitive resource; it’s quickly being depleted with no replenishment cycle developed neither to counteract intensive cultivation, nor to revitalize the land the cotton was once cultivated on.

In the Cotton Inc. video called Control for Erosion Control, the Ellis family turns cotton gin trash into high quality mulche, which is a conservation technique believe it or not.  This mulche is sprayed onto landscaping projects to prevent soil erosion. Most mulche is made from wood; they have taken a byproduct and introduced it to the green industry.  This action helps to reduce soil corruption and promote fertility.  This sustainable attempt lessens landfill waste through finding an alternative for leftover cotton pieces too.

EverLASTING Fashion

There is a lot of discussion about the usage of natural materials over synthetic fibers, so much so that corporations are even confused by it.  As a fashion designer that uses synthetic in production, it’s been brought to my attention that several others disagree with my choice. My fashion collections are heavily based on synthetic material. I passionately agree with the rest of the fashion industry, we do have an environmental and social responsibility as resource users.

In Sustainable fashion and textiles: Design Journeys by Kate Fletcher, the author challenges us to think beyond the material aspect and take more thought into the fibers lifecycle. Synthetic fibers are not as awful as my colleague seems to think. The false misconception is related to factors such as, renewability and biodegradability.  Granted, as Charline Ducas from Textile Exchange stated, synthetic fibers are very depended upon crude oil; however, natural fibers have a great impact on our environment too.  For example, cultivating cotton uses nearly 8000 liters of water whereas polyester uses little or zero water.  Not only is water management a problem but cotton growing requires a lot of fertilizers and harmful pesticides, which can be detrimental to the consumed water supply.  It’s already causing a lack of biodiversity and land infertility. The court ruling is still out on whether or not using natural fibers is a true sustainable practice. 

A recent study has shown that oil-based synthetic fibers like polyester are non-renewable and non-biodegradable.  In my latest designs, I have switched to using biodegradable synthetics made from poly(lactic acid), a polyester made from cotton. Making synthetic fibers add to higher levels of emissions, along with pollution in the air.  I do not agree with my colleague’s response to my preference of synthetic fibers, nor do I totally disagree with her.  There’s a lot of research that still is being performed, one must have complete information to know the most efficient method.  Both textiles can be recycled in some form.  There are many known and unknown complexities surrounding the environmental and social impacts from producing textiles. It’s an ever-continuing learning process.  

The newly-coined term called eco-efficiency means to do more with less.  Brand retailers and designers have to perform fashion activities that are beneficial to consumers as well as our environment. Charline Ducas provides me with hope because the non-profit organization, Textile Exchange, mission is to inspire and equip specific industry people to accelerate sustainable practices among manufacturers, retailers, farm groups and fashion schools.  This pragmatic approach considers design techniques and technology development.  As fashion designers, we must vow to remain informative on how to integrate sustainability into our product. 

Fashionable Ways

Fashioning Sustainability raises the eyebrow of any reader concerning the affect unsustainable activities in the apparel industry. It highlights the responsibility that a retailer and consumer, in everyone connected to the retailer, have in improving our steps in creating and disregarding clothing. Fashion designers and retailers have the grand power to influence consumers to buy, wear, and support eco-friendly clothes. They have the ability to provide product knowledge and environmental conservation information. The harmful use of extreme pesticides is ever-increasing, especially in cotton. There are natural alternatives available to substitute cotton like hemp, but retailers have to be willing to do the digging and searching to save the overused crop. Level of productivity is at war with land resource use. We have to be willingly to sacrifice something; it should not be our beautiful planet.  Not only is our method of clothing production a serious problem, but our disposal of them poses another threat. 

In EMSA article, it is noted that water supply, one of the ecosystem services, is being used unsustainably; we use and fail to put back. The clothing industry is depleting groundwater sources that are not replaceable. Poor management of irrigation withdrawal practices. The activity of producing apparel faster is ruining natural resources such as crops and the quality of water. There seems to be little interest in maintaining the goods. Even though our economy is revealing growth, the depletion of valuable raw material is not being reported. There has been a lack of monitoring in the sourcing of raw materials, development and production stage of clothing products. 

Yes, in my opinion, the apparel industry is very much guilty of the issues described in the EMSA article. Corruption of freshwater and pollutants flowing more in the air showcase the industry’s failure to take action. Workers are having major health problems from minor allergies to developing cancer, due to minimal efforts made to protect them. The exposure to harsh chemicals also can cause infertility, just imagine what it is doing to our Earth.  Not a pretty sight!

Walsh & Brown’s article, bring up valid points. The source evaluates the pros and cons of environmental impacts based on a monetary value. Two Patagonia shirts were compared based on method of production: conventionally grown cotton and organically grown cotton. Cotton is a dry plant, so water consumption is hugely higher when using nonorganic methods. The calculation of the environmental cost from using pesticides proved to be outstanding. Conventional farming leads to soil erosion, which reduces land infertility, and ecological harm. 

Ecological Alarm Sounds Off!

Environmental sustainability refers to the ability of mankind to be good stewards over Earth’s gifts of natural resources; the level of sustainable performance greatly affects future generations to come.  This responsibility or lack of thereof has started an uproar among society today as to whether or not our usage of these resources through economic growth and population expansion have created greater battles to fight.  The theory of global warming suggests that our planet Earth is getting warmer by the second with increase levels of greenhouse gases such as carbon dioxide filling the air we breathe.

There is an ecological crisis upon us; the catalyst for this newfound emergence was ignited by the turning point from an agricultural-based economy to becoming more industrialized.  According to Ecosystems and Human Well-being: Synthesis written by the Washington, D.C. Island Press, several ecosystem services have been degraded as consequence of supplying other services to meet human’s desires such as, an increase in food production. Terrestrial ecosystems have become a net sink of carbon dioxide emissions.  Heighten emissions of carbon dioxide contribute to global climate change.  Hence, regulating global climate through carbon sequestrations has intensified. It will take centuries for global temperatures to balance out with higher concentrations of greenhouse gases in the atmosphere, even longer for biological systems to adjust. Overwhelming amounts of nitrogen contribute to eutrophication of freshwater and coastal marine ecosystems. Nitrogen is claimed to be vital in the formulation of the ground-level ozone layer, this destruction would deplete the ozone layer in the stratosphere causing increased UV-B radiation from the sun and climate change. 

Chapter one from A New Green History of the World by Ponting, says the elimination of trees affected the island’s soil; nutrients were depleted by the crops and soil erosion occurred.  The land became malnourished, unable to produce adequate food for survival. Ultimately, the environment was ruined. The American Policy Roundtable website believes in a strategy called “no regrets” since there is not enough evidence to support global warming.

The environmental problems we face today are new and old.  From the Easter Land reading, it’s clear that using resources, such as trees, and not replenishing them has a long-lasting impact on the livelihood of mankind, growing capabilities of land and exposure to harsh environmental conditions.  Similar to the island, the world has limited resources to support society and all of our high demands.  In Ecosystems and Human Well-being: Synthesis written by the Washington, D.C. Island Press, the change of the planet from rapid growing demands for food and water to a more sophisticated economy presents new obstacles to overcome with those advantages. The degradation of ecosystem services has solved one problem, while creating another one. The advancement in production and distribution has caused an overload of pollutants and harmful chemicals floating in the air, and underground. On the American Policy Roundtable website, it is argued that if global warming did occur, this event would be beneficial. Between 5000-3000 B.C., a period where mankind began to build its first civilizations, climate was much warmer than global warming theory predictions.

The environmental problems that I have researched are seemingly irreversible.  On the American Policy Roundtable website, it is believed that scientific evidence has not proven that human activities negatively affect the Earth’s climate in any way.  However, in Ecosystems and Human Well-being: Synthesis written by the Washington, D.C. Island Press, it states that substantial efforts made in institutions and governance, economic policies and other incentives along with knowledge could significantly decrease the severity of the damage done.  In chapter one of A New Green History of the World by Ponting, Easter Island is now described as the most remote inhabited places on the earth; the settled Polynesians did not realize a way of not depleting their available island resources and therefore, irreversibly damaged their life support system.